Food and wine


South African wine regions

From the tip of the African continent, where the two great oceans meet at Cape Agulhas, to deep in the desert-like Karoo and the Free State - such is the stretch of South Africa’s wine regions. Nearly 60 officially declared appellations cover more than 100 000 hectares.

A Wine of Origin Scheme was introduced in 1973 that designated production regions, districts and wards. The latter is the smallest geographical unit with distinctive ecological characteristics. Official estates consist of single farms or multiple properties run as a unit.

It has often been noted that the Cape winelands are probably the most scenic in the world. For this reason wine tourism is one of the country’s growing industries. Offering a range of topographical pleasures ranging from high, snowy mountains to arid plains, arrangements for tourists are becoming more and more sophisticated in the various regions.

There are 15 very well organised Wine Route Associations, and information about accommodation, eateries and visits to cellars and farms is readily available through booklets, travel agents and the internet.

Constantia is the historic hub of Cape wine. Closest to Cape Town, it boasts some of the most famous estate names such as Groot and Klein Constantia, and Buitenverwachting. On premium terroir and in ideal climatic conditions, superb sauvignon blanc and semillon wines are produced.

Durbanville and its hills northeast of Cape Town have a winemaking history dating back 280 years. Some star performers are emerging, including brilliant sauvignon blancs with strong contemporary focus on shiraz and merlot. Durbanville Hills is a large, modern facility and Nitida a small boutique set-up.

Franschhoek lies in a contained valley, a pretty town founded by the French Huguenots in 1688. Today it is very much a boutique region with old buildings, restaurants and small producers. Stylish cellars include La Motte, Cabrière, Plaisir de Merle and Boekenhoutskloof.

Klein Karoo is a semi-desert region inland that has inspired some winemakers to take up the challenge. Fortified wines such as muscadels and Portuguese “port” styles do well in places such as Calitzdorp.

Olifants River is a fast-growing region stretching a few hundred kilometres up the west coast from the Cape. Plenty of exported easy-drinking wines come from here. The Vredendal Winery is one of the largest in the world, employing some of the most modern techniques.

Orange River is one of Africa’s great rivers and along its Northern Cape bank lie large white-wine producing vineyards. Winemaking is sophisticated and reds are getting more attention with an eye to exports.

Paarl is another of the Cape’s historic towns where wine has been made for centuries. Home to the original KWV head office and its impressive Cathedral Cellar, as well as the country’s best-known brand Nederburg, many cellars, small and large, from boutique to co-operative, produce wine from the ordinary to the sensational. Winemakers have been concentrating on shiraz, but some fine chenin blanc, pinotage, cabernet sauvignon, blends, and even unusual varieties such as viognier and mourvèdre are turned into prize-winning wines. Glen Carlou, Villiera and the value-for-money co-operative Boland Kelders are among the top performers here.

Robertson and a few other villages lie along a fertile, if warm, valley where white wines such as chardonnay (from De Wetshof Estate) and sparkling wine (from Graham Beck Winery) used to be the main stars. Today the move is to red varieties, especially shiraz (Zandvliet).

Stellenbosch is, in the minds of many, the finest wine area in South Africa, claiming the crown for reds. With a list of more than 80 wineries and producers, it is also the most expensive wine farmland. Nearly all the most famous international names in South African wines are found here in an area reaching from sea-facing slopes to valley-hugging hills. This is the home of Kanonkop, Meerlust, Rustenberg, Thelema and Warwick. The list is endless. This is also where Distell, the country’s largest player in the drinks market, is seated. Designated wards within the district are Jonkershoek Valley, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, Bottelary, Devon Valley and Papegaaiberg. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinotage and chenin blanc are the stars here.

Swartland means “black country”, a traditional sunny wheat area north of Cape Town. These days, wineries are making modern, well-appreciated white wines here with top reds on the way. The Darling region especially is on the roll.

Walker Bay near the coastal town of Hermanus has become another of the Cape’s most fashionable regions. With Elgin to the west and Bot River inland, it falls under the Overberg appellation. It is the home of Cape pinot noir and good chardonnay and home to places like Hamilton-Russell.

Worcester and surrounds comprise 20% of all South Africa’s vineyards. Brandy is produced, and wine for wholesalers. Small volumes are bottled under own labels. Value-for-money is a hallmark.

Future fancies

Elim is an old mission village near Cape Agulhas, Africa's southern tip. Its cool climatic and lean soil conditions are considered most promising for new wine production. Distell is financing development of more than 900 hectare of premium wine-farming land here.

Cape Point is right at the sea and brilliant sauvignon blanc is made here, with more to come.

Prince Albert near the majestic Swartberg (Black Mountain) has a fertile valley, good soil, water and a handful of enthusiastic new producers.

On the move …

White varieties still represent the majority of Cape vineyard plantings, but the balance has improved from 15% red in 1990 to about a third. In 2000 more than 80% of all new plantings were red, with shiraz, cabernet and merlot at the top of the list. All in all, in the year up to the end of 2000, 6 042.7 hectares of new vines were planted.

The Cape’s wine industry is as much subject to fashion and fads as any other in the world. Right now shiraz is the rave, like it is worldwide. Chardonnay is making place for better quality sauvignon blanc and modern versions of classic chenin blanc.

Both the recently established Chenin Blanc Association and the increasingly influential Pinotage Producers Association are making great strides in improving wines from these varieties.

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